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Sunday, September 17, 2017

Thoughts from Galicia: 17.9.17

Spanish life is not always likeable but it is compellingly loveable.
- Christopher Howse: A Pilgrim in Spain

If you've arrived here because of an interest in Galicia or Pontevedra, see my web page here.

CAMINO NEWS

If you're going to do the Cercedilla-Segovia stage of the Camino de Madrid, here's some practical advice:-
  • Don't assume that the very steep first 8km can be avoided by going up the CL-601 to Puerto Navacerrada and starting from there. If you do, everyone you ask where the Camino de Santiago starts will give you the same answer: Ni puta idéa. No fucking idea. And also look at you as if you're an idiot. If you're lucky - as we were - someone in the café will tell you you have to take the Camino Schmid until it links up with the Camino de Santiago at Fuente de la Fuenfría. See this map and imagine a line drawn from the CL-601on the right to this place at the highest point of the walk on the left. A considerable detour on a planned walk of 23km from this latter point. Which is Fuente de la Fuenfría.
  • Don't assume that anyone walking on one of the myriad tracks (caminos) in this mountain valley knows of the existence of the Camino de Madrid/Santiago, or that it coincides with one of the other tracks. Even if they're actually on it! It doesn't seem to be well known locally. To say the very least.
  • Be aware that, once you do get to Puerto de la Fuenfría, you should not take the track downhill designated GR-10.1, as you will end up back on the CL-601. Ignore the would-be helpers who blithely tell you to take this - wrong and very difficult - track. It'll add at least another 8km to your day, as you make your way back up to where you should be on the Camino de Madrid at Fuente de la Reina, several kilometres after Fuente de la Fuenfría. Meaning that, by the time you reach Segovia, you'll have done rather more than 30km, not the 23 you planned.
  • Take note that 95% of cyclists – of whom there are a lot on Saturdays – are bastards who give you no warning of their arrival and no thanks for you getting out of their way.
  • Take note also that there might be a foot race of 102km taking place from Madrid to Segovia on the day you do your walk, meaning that bastard cyclists are not the only people you have to get out of the way of.
  • Take note also that the kilometre markers on the Camino de Santiago - when you eventually get to it - are there for some other purpose than information. Amusement or even bemusement perhaps. My walking time between them varied between 5 and 17 minutes and some numbers where repeated, while some were omitted. I decided that those responsible for the markers had given 31 people one marker stone each and told them: You must put these in the right order but, after that, you can put them where the hell you fancy. Can anyone come up with a better explanation for a bizarre situation I've not found on any of my previous 8 caminos?
  • Finally . . . If you're staying in a hotel, don't assume that no one will come in at 4.40am making as much noise as if it were midday, stand chatting in the corridor and, all in all, displaying the Spanish lack of consideration for others I've oft cited over the years. Of course, I've also said things change if you establish a personal link with such people. My experience suggests this can be done simply by shouting 'Shut up' from the bed in your room.

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